Tuesday, July 18, 2023
East Neuk News
Sunday, July 16, 2023
Dateline: Pittenweem, Kingdom of Fife
The name derives from Pictish and Scottish Gaelic. "Pit-" represents Pictish pett 'place, portion of land', and "-enweem" is Gaelic na h-Uaimh, 'of the Caves' in Gaelic, so "The Place of the Caves", named after St Fillan's cave.
That St. Fillan's is an odd looking thing that we walked by yesterday, with not much to see. Though admittedly this makes it sound more substantive:
This chamber is St Fillan’s Cave, a natural cavern probably carved by an underground river thousands of years ago. The miracle-working Saint Fillan is believed to have lived in the cave in the 7th century, reading and writing in the gloom with the help of a luminous left arm. Inside, you can visit the stone altar, explore a dead-end passage and see the steep steps creating a former entrance to the cave from above. The cave is still a minor pilgrimage site, with Christian services occasionally held under the rock roof.
This is the entrance:
And one from inside (to be clear, these are photos I've grabbed off the Internet):
Perhaps worth another peek inside....
We are very excited to be once again hosting the Space To Breathe Art Exhibition and Festival at Bowhouse. This three-week-long exhibition will showcase incredible phototrophy and artwork from renowned artists like Andy Goldsworthy, Susan Derges, Harry Cory Wright, and Alexander Lindsay Photography.
Some samples:
Gale damage was extensive in central Scotland, and Glasgow was particularly badly hit with gusts exceeding 90 knots in many places. Also 250,000 houses were damaged in Scotland, leaving more than 2,000 people homeless. 20 people died across central Scotland, 9 in Glasgow alone.
Saturday, July 15, 2023
Royal Dornoch, An Appreciation
That photo is from a prior trip, but always nice to be welcomed back.... We trundled up facing a fairly dire weather forecast, although the last version thereof improved slightly, indicating that we'd have just enough time to reach the ninth tee, as far out from the clubhouse as one gets, before the fun might start...
You could draw whatever conclusions you wanted from the sky, which featured blue patches amidst those dark, foreboding clouds:
There were actually two choppers there, quite the clever means of dealing with Dornoch's perpetual parking shortage. We were on No. 15 or 16 when we heard them take off, heading back to Loch Lomond for dinner according to John.
One doesn't take ball-washers for granted over here, but the tartan towel is a nice touch:
If only I could identify the clan whose tartan is used, though my guess would be Sutherland. Amusingly, there is an app for that, this Tartan finder, although in this case I think we need a reverse model, a Tartan Shazam if you will.
Your humble blogger began his day and trip en fuego, rolling in a twelve-footer for birdie on the opener and making par on the iconic second hole:
There are three linked geological formations on which RDGC is built. All are linksland, i.e. land that now or once was ‘linked’ to the sea, but they have different characteristics, based on their elevation and their age. The highest, oldest ground is that on which sit the clubhouse, the first two holes, the 3rd tee, the 5th tee, the 7th, the tee and upper fairway of the 8th, the 16th green, the tee and upper fairway of the 17th, and the final hole. It is slightly harder and more compact than the ground on the lower levels, but still good springy links turf, with fine grasses and wispy rough. That the land is a bit different, however, is clear from some agronomical observations. For one, it is only on this plateau that heather can be found, most notably on the left hand side of the 7th. For another, the grass on this plateau is sometimes subject to a disease which brings rise on the 8th and 17th fairways to one of my top 10 golfing signs-‘Beware of Slime!’The second plateau is a small one, but fundamental to the greatness of Dornoch. It comprises the 3rd fairway and green, the 4th, the 5th and 11th greens, the right hand bail out areas for the 12th and 14th fairways, and the world famous 14th green. This plateau, the result perhaps of some mini-ice age at some time, gives a vertical texture to the course which allows for the use of subtle and not so subtle elevation changes between holes, and also gives character to the holes themselves. The view from the 3rd tee to the lower plateau is incomparable. The 4th hole, which requires a drive of both length and precision to stay on the middle plateau and offer a shot to the green. The incredibly complex and fascinating 4th green complex. The great 5th green. The great 11th green. Foxy.The great 17th green. Enough said.The final plateau is that land which now links the course to the sea. The 5th fairway. The lower 8th fairway and green. The 9th, 10th, 11th (sans green), 12th, 13th, 14th (sans green), 15th, 16th tee and lower 17th fairway. This is rolling dunesland, at or near sea level. It is shifting land–even in the 24 years I have known it, the features have changed. It is endangered land. The seas encroaches on the 9th and 11th fairways and on the 16th tee, requiring periodic shoring up with large boulders and rip rap. Environmental activists in Scotland cite the land around the Dornoch Firth as one of the first places which will be reclaimed by the sea, if and when global warming occurs. It is a beautiful, but fragile place.
I only wish I had read this before going out to play, because it's a little hard to follow. But the weakness of a traditional out-and-back links is that you'll play a long series of holes either into or against the wind. This is mitigated at Dornoch by slight changes in direction, but also by incorporating elevation changes as well, as the 5th and 7th tee boxes are up on that highest ridge line, but they routed that 17th hole as a U-turn.
This is that fifth tee box, though lower because it's from the ladies' tees:
It was brutal there for a bit, as water was temporarily pooling. I had asked Theresa to take a photo of me on one of the tees, and she took some of Ross, who hit first. Thought you might enjoy seeing our varying costume choices, one being quite different from the other three:
Friday, July 14, 2023
Dornoch Update
We came, we saw and we got soaked..... And it was still quite glorious.
I will attempt to blog our day at Royal Dornoch, but this morning is a bit busy. It's our departure day, when we pack up all our worldly possessions and trundle down to Pittenweem. That entails John ferrying us to Inverness to grab our rental car, then a 3+ hour drive down to the Kingdom of Fife.
Once we get settled in the house, tomorrow morning should be quiet (not to mention quite nasty, weather-wise), so I'll use that time to share some of our Dornoch experiences and photos.
See you then?
Thursday, July 13, 2023
Dateline: Strathpeffer, Ross and Cromarty, Highlands, Scotland
Bit of pretension in that dateline for a place we mostly refer to as the Strath, a Victorian spa village popular after the discovery of sulphurous springs there in the 1700's. As in much of Scotland, development was linked to the extension of the rail lines to Dingwall in the 1860's and then a spur from the Kyle of Lochalsh to Strathpeffer in the 1880's. The spa hospital burned in 1946, and sulphur isn't what it used to be, so the Strath is now a quaint village of 1,469 souls featuring distinctive Victorian architecture, as well as a golf course with this unique claim:
There is a scenic golf course, which boasts the longest drop from tee to green of any course in Scotland.
It does that drop (and rise) several times, so not for the faint of heart....
Wednesday presented in grim fashion, grey with rain that was heavyish at times and a forecast that proved eerily prescient. Last year we took a long walk back through the hills with Elsie and their son Ross and his family, wife Dace and son Sebastian, who was carried a good bit of the way. The walk was designed to end at Coul House, a beautiful county house hotel where we enjoyed a delightful light lunch and coffee.
In view of the weather, we eschewed the physical exercise and simply drove there for a coffee. This doesn't do it justice, but it's quite a lovely spot:
With a break in the weather, we took a wee walk to Rogie Falls:
The water is brown on account of peat:
Peat is an accumulation of partially decayed vegetation or organic matter. It is unique to natural areas called peatlands, bogs, mires, moors, or muskegs.
Once used for heat, it's now being replaced by offshore wind farms, and the big issue in the Highlands these days being the intrusive transmission lines through these bucolic glens. But that's an issue for another time.
Yesterday we noted that the weather forecast called for a clearing at time suitable for our planned BBQ? Well, if you can't believe a weatherman, what can we believe in these crazy times? But, sure enough, this was our sky as John fired up the grill:
And what a barbie it is:
Quite the thing, though I won't need to eat again until we get down to Fife....
The meal ended with the back half of the pudding (that term is used for desserts in general):
No clinical definition can do it justice, of course:
Banoffee pie is a British dessert pie made from bananas, whipped cream and a thick caramel sauce (made from boiled condensed milk, or dulce de leche), combined either on a buttery biscuit base or one made from crumbled biscuits and butter. Some versions of the recipe include chocolate, coffee or both. Its name, sometimes spelled "banoffi", is a portmanteau combining the words "banana" and "toffee"
It's simply divine, and I'm not even that much of a pudding guy.... Let's just leave it that banoffee pie is proof of the existence of a benevolent deity.
What might our plans be for today? Well, here it gets exciting for your humble blogger. The morning is looking scary nice, we don't trust blue skies in these parts. But this was the view an hour ago from Elsie's kitchen window
Even a bit brighter right now...
Ross, Dace and Sebi are headed our way, and we shall be trundling North To The Links of....well, that place. That reference is to this classic piece of the Master from 1964, unfortunately no longer available online, though we do have this wee summary:
THE SPORTING SCENE about a golfing holiday in Scotland, & brief account of the early days of the game. A little over a century ago the traditional feather-stuffed golf ball, in use for over 400 years, was replaced by a ball made of gutta-percha. Up to that time golf had been played almost exclusively in Scotland, but the new harder, more durable ball changed this. Golf became a universal pastime, currently pursued by some 15 million devotees. Scotland has nevertheless continued to be regarded as the golf country. There are many visitors each year to its celebrated championship courses. They are: Prestwick, Troon, Ailsa, Gullan No. 1, Muirfield, North Berwick, St. Andrews and Carnoustie. On his recent tour the writer visited some of the comparatively unknown courses with his friend, Sam McKinlay, editor of the Glasgow Evening Times. Their destination was Dornoch, far up in the north. On the way they played at Nairn and the little course at Golspie. The writer thinks very highly of Dornoch and describes it with enthusiasm.
Yes, Herbert Warren Wind thinks highly of Dornoch in the sense that I think highly of...well, banoffee pie. I did reread the piece before leaving home and Employee No. 2 did as well.
I did just grab a quick peak at the Met Office weather forecast and, well, what was I thinking? Good thing we weren't planning a BBQ for tonight.....So grateful for all the effort, especially since Ross had a brutal work schedule yesterday and a zero dark thirty airport run, so fingers are firmly crossed.....
Tomorrow we head down to Fife.
Wednesday, July 12, 2023
Arrival
Just a quick note to assure everyone that we have arrived safely and without incident. I haven't yet snapped my first photo, but Elsie and John have welcomed us with their typical warmth and grace, quite the thing after a long journey. And just when I thought I couldn't eat another bite, out comes the banoffee pie.....
While last year's trip featured warm and dry weather, it appears that Scottish weather is regressing to its mean.... it's grey and wet (though at least not cold), so our plans for a good walk to burn off breaky are currently under review. Especially as John just informed us that at the current temperature it's likely to be "midgy" out there.... Didn't know it could be used as an adjective (Spellcheck apparently didn't know that either), so who says old dogs can't learn new tricks.
Forecast for tomorrow isn't any better, alas. The only good news to be found in the forecast is that it is projected to be dry after 5:00 p.m. today, when John plans to fire up the BBQ. I have been conscripted to hold the brolley over John if it's wet, though that might require a step ladder.... Actually, strike the "might".
I was somewhat tempted to blog yesterday's Senate hearing. The hearing itself seemed to mostly be prima donnas bloviating, but there were some gems in the associated document dump that are worth your time. There's fun to be had in there, most notably in Yasir Al-Rumayyan's rather pitiful application for Augusta National membership. I guess he didn't hear about the first rule of Fight Club.....
I'll be back with more over the next few days.








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